Sunday, September 19, 2010

Swimming in An Exploding Lake

I had already been on Lake Kivu shores several times, both in Rwanda and the DRC, but this weekend was the first time I actually swam in it. Together with Meda, we spent Saturday on the beautiful Gisenyi Serena Hotel beach, and decided to go for a dip in the beautiful - but EXPLODING - methane lake.

From the extensive scientific explanations, I pretty much only get the following (thanx Wikipedia):
"Scientists hypothesize that sufficient volcanic interaction with the lake's bottom water that has high gas concentrations would heat water, force the methane out of the water, spark a methane explosion, and trigger a nearly simultaneous release of carbon dioxide. The carbon dioxide would then suffocate large numbers of people in the lake basin as the gases roll off the lake surface. It is also possible that the lake could spawn lake tsunamis as gas explodes out of it.

The risk posed by Lake Kivu began to be understood during the analysis of more recent events at Lake Nyos. Lake Kivu's methane was originally thought to be merely a cheap natural resource for export, and for the generation of cheap power. Once the mechanisms that caused lake overturns began to be understood, so did awareness of the risk the lake posed to the local population."

From the local folklore - well, dive and run away if the lake actually overturns (!). When I asked my Guatemalan boss a few weeks ago whether it was safe to swim there, he just answered "Define safe!"...

So, obviously, I was drawn to the experience (and so far, two days later, I am still seemingly unintoxicated and definitely in one piece). The only danger I was actually in while swimming in the very peaceful, warm waters: some crazy boat surfers, who almost knocked me over. The other "injury" I actually sustained myself: applying some sun-screen rather carelessly, I completely burned on half of my body, and remained pretty much white on the other half (a sun-protection factor of 30 is definitely required around the Equator, but SO not conducive to a beautiful tan...)

Otherwise, of course, the beach is also divided: the local hang-out place, which is always overcrowded with staring people, and the 'white hang-out place', where you are treated royally (and expensively). I would have totally gone for the former, but sometimes, in this overly populated country, you DO need a place just for yourself, without having to be constantly scrutinized and pointed fingers at. So the all-white place it was in the end, and the choice was just right. The downside, of course: you will always find incredibly annoying, loud Americans on the private beach, who are know-it-alls from early morning to late evening. Leaving them aside - wonderful day, asking for more of the same in the near future!



Swimming in Rwanda, with DRC land strip in the back...










A beautiful sunset a couple of weeks ago









Idyllic Lake Kivu shores from our house in Goma, DRC.









A not-so-idyllic work-day in Kivu Lake in Goma. Far, FAR away from where that NYC bag came from...

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